Coat and method of manufacture



May 10, 1938. J, HA E 2,117,163

GOAT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed 001;. 2, 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet l May10, 1938.

J. HASPEL COAT AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed Oct. 2, 1937 2Sheets-Sheet 2 c705 6p flaspel Patented May 10, 1938 UNITED STATES COATAND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Joseph Haspel, New Orleans, La., assignor toHaspel Brothers, Inc.,' New Orleans, La.

Application October 2,

4 Claims.

This invention relates the coat type and the ing it.

The object of the invention is to manufacture, in a manner ashereinafter set forth, a coat which will retain its shape and be moresightly in appearance.

A further object of the invention is to provide a coat including asimple, compact, durable, thoroughly eificient means of a form, in amanner as hereinafter set forth, acting as a shoulder pad and sleevesupport and coacting with other parts of the garment to provide for thelatter retaining its shape and to enhance its appearance.

A further object of the invention is to provide a coat including themeans as aforesaid and with such means capable of being expeditiouslyinstalled in the coat body at a very nominal addition with respect tothe cost of producing the garment not having as a part thereof the saidmeans.

To the above ends essentially and to others which may hereinafterappear, the invention consists of the novel construction, combinationand arrangement of parts as will be more specifically described andillustrated in the accompanying drawings wherein is shown embodiments ofthe invention, but it is to be understood that changes, variations andmodifications may be resorted to which fall within the scope of theinvention as claimed.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is an elevation looking towards the to an outer garment ofmethod of manufacturouter face of one side of the coat constructed inaccordance with this invention and illustrating in dotted lines themeans which acts as a shoulder pad and a support for the head of thesleeve of the coat,

Figure 2 is a fragmentary view in elevation looking towards the innerface of the side of a coat constructed in accordance with thisinvention,

Figure 3 is a section on line an enlarged scale,

Figure 4 is an elevation of the combined shoulder pad and sleeve headsupporting unit forming an element of a coat in invention,

Figure 5 is a fragmentary View in elevation looking towards the innerface of the side of a modified form of coat in accordance with thisinvention and illustrating parts thereof disassembled.

Figure 6 is a fragmentary view in elevation 3-3, Figure 1 uponaccordance with this 1937, Serial No. 167,058

looking towards the inner face of the modified V form of coat inaccordance with this invention,

Figure '7 is a section on line 1-1, Figure 1 upon an enlarged scale, and

Figure 8 is an elevation of the combined shoulder pad and sleeve headsupporting unit employed in the modified form of coat shown in Figures 5to '7.

With reference to the drawings and as is well known the body portion ofcertain forms of coats includes an outer facing l which provides theneck, sides, front and back of the coat, a pair of linings H, only oneshown, and each of which is arranged against the inner face of theportions of the facing H) which provide a shoulder, a part of the frontand a side of the coat. The pair of linings II have the upper portionsof their inner edges connected together by a transverse extending narrowlining I 2. One of the shoulders provided by the facing I0 is indicatedat l3. One of the armholes of the coat is designated I 4 and is providedin the facing l0 and in a part of the lining ll. One of the sleeves ofthe coat is indicated at l5.

In a coat construction, in accordance with this invention, the edge ofthe armhole M has the major portion of its length enclosed by a binderH5. The ends of the binder it are indicated at I1. That portion of theedge of the armhole M which is not provided with the binder is indicatedat I 8. A part of the upper end of the sleeve 3 extends into the binderIS. The shoulder l3 in proximity to its outer edge is secured to theremaining portion of the upper end of the sleeve l adjacent the top edgeof such portion as at l9. The binder I6 is secured to the facing l0,sleeve l5 and a part of lining H by stitching 20.

Arranged between lining II and shoulder I3 of facing i0 is a portion ofa combined pad and supporting means 2i for the shoulder l3 and the headend of the sleeve l5. The other portion of the means 2| extends into theupper part of the head of the sleeve I5. Secured to the lining l2 andfacing i3, adjacent the upper portion of the edge of the armhole Hi, asat 22 is one end of a retaining member 23 which encompasses that portionof the means 2! arranged in the head of the sleeve. The member 23 isbent upon itself to provide a fold 24 which has its free end secured tothe inner face of the sleeve l5 adjacent the edge of the armhole I 4 bythe stitching 25. The latter also acts to secure the means 2| with thesleeve l5 and member 23.

With reference to Figures 2 and 4, the means 2| is a unit formed of apair of outer sections 26, 21 and an inner section 28 of pad-likematerial. The sections 26, 21 project from the section 28 and theirprojected portions are connected together by the stitching 29. Thesections of the means 2| are secured together by a row of stitching 30.The section 26 as well as the section 21 is formed from a piece offabric which is so shaped to provide the means 2| with a lateral taperedextension 3| merging into the portions 32, 33 of the means 2|. Theportion 32 is of greater length than the portion 33. The portion 32 hasits edge 34 of arcuate contour. The portion 32 has its edge of concavecontour. When the means 2| is mounted in position, that side thereofprovided with the extension 3| depends below the other side of saidmeans and is arranged in the sleeve head. 7

With reference to Figures 5 to 8, the coat structure will be the same asthat shown by Figures 1. to 4. with this exception that the. combinedpad and supporting. means 35 respectively for the shoulder and sleevehead. .is formed of a pad section and a supportrs'ection. 36., 31respectively. The latter is secured to one side of the section 36 anddepends from one end' thereof as: well as extending laterally from eachside thereof. One of the extended portions of the section 31 andindicated at 38' is of greater length than the other extended portion 39thereof. The section 33' is of semi-circular contour and is formed of apair of strips of fabric Ml; 4| having interposed therebetween a stripof padding material 42. The strips 40, M, Hare secured together bystitching 43. The. section 36 has an arcuate edge M and a horizontaledge'45. The section 38 is of. oblong contour and formed of a stripof fabric45 and a. stripof. padding material 41. The fabric. strip 66. is bentupon itself toprovide it of .U-shape in transverse cross section and thepadding material 41' is. arranged within the strip 36. The. strip 46 andstrip 41 are secured together by. stitching G8. The section 31:. ispositioned against the strip. dirof section 36, in proximity to thesaid. horizontal edge 45 and is so arranged relatively to section 31 toprovide it to extend in a manneras heretofore set forth. The means 35.is connected to and: arranged in position relative to the body andsleeves of the coat in a manner as the means 2| is connected andarranged in position. The means 35. functions'for the samepurpose.asthemeans 2|. The latter aswell as the means 35' possesses a softcharacteristic.

Each of the extensions is=toprovide a support or padding to the sleevehead at the point toward the front ofa sleevewhere the latter joins thecoat body to thereby produce a rounded effect in the sleeve itself. Theaction of the arms of the wearer do not crease the. supports or paddingsprovided by the extensions, as whatever creases appear in the fronts ofthe sleeves caused by the movement of the arms are below and under theextensions.

What I claim is:

1. In a method of manufacturing a coat, the positioning of a pair ofoppositely disposed padding and supporting means relative to theshoulders and the heads of the sleeves of the coat, positioningoppositely disposed retainers in encompassing relation with respect tothe portions of said means constituting the supports for the sleeveheads, securing one end of the retainers to the coat body in proximityto the armholes in the latter securing the other end of the retainers tothe inner face of the coat sleeves in proximity to the armholes andsimultaneously with the securing of the said other ends of the retainersanchoring the said means with the retainers and sleeves.

2. In a coat having a shoulder, an armhole and a sleeve extended fromthe latter, the combination of means having a portion located at theshoulder to constitute a pad for the latter and a'portion extendedthrough the armhole into the sleeve to constitute a support for the headof the latter, a retainer encompassing that portion of said meanspositioned in the sleeve, stitching securing one end of the retainer tothe coat in proximity to the armhole, and stitching securing the otherend of the retainer to the sleeve in proximity tothe armhole and foranchoring said means, retainer and sleeve together.

3. In a coat having a shoulder, an. armhole and asleeveextended' fromthe latter, the combination of means having a-port'ionlocated at theshoulder to constitute a pad for the latter and. aportion extendedthrough the armhole into the sleeve to constitute a support for thesleeve head at the point toward the front of the sleeve where the sleevejoins the body of the coat to provide a rounded eifect in the sleeveitself and whereby creases appearing in the front of the sleeve, causedby the movement of the arm are disposed below the extension, a retainerencompassing that portion of said means positioned in the sleeve,stitching securing one end of the retainer to the coat in proximity tothe armhole, and stitching securing the other end of the retainer to thesleeve in proximity to the armhole and for'anchoring said means,retainer and sleeve together, said means consisting of asubstantiallysemi-circular portion provided with a lateral extension.

4. In a coat having a shoulder, an armhole and a sleeve extended fromthe latter, the combination of means having a portion located at theshoulder to constitute a pad for the latter and a portionextended'through the armhole into the sleeve to constitute a support forthe sleeve head at the point toward the front of the sleeve where thesleeve joins the body of the coat to provide a rounded effect inthe'sleeve itself and whereby creases appearing inthe front of thesleeve, caused by the movement of the arm are i disposedbel'ow theextension; a retainer encompassing that portion of-' said meanspositioned in the sleeve, stitching securing one end'of the retainer tothe coat in proximity to the armhole, and stitching securing the otherend of the retainer to'the sleeve in proximity to'the armhole and foranchoring said-means, retainer and sleeve together, said meansconsisting. of a semi-circular section and an oblong section extendingfrom the horizontal edge and laterally'in opposite directionswithrespect to the curved edge of the semi-circular section; said oblongsection being positioned at one side of the semi-circular section.

JOSEPH I-IASPEL.

